The Kimchi Pot List

Wouldn't it be Nice

2011-09-07T12:16:00.000-07:00

What is a girl to do when the Summer in Berlin is just not meeting standards.? I guess she just has to head for the Cote d'Azur for the weekend. Sigh.

Nice, it turns out, is not a bad looking city.

And I got to catch up with the lovely Kerry. Mwa ha ha. Elegant laughter.

Until Michael said something to get these glares

A room with a view

And a cliff out back

On the promenade you can watch people diving off the cliff

Splosh

We went to a little village, Gilette, the best a man can get.

With the bast man I could get.

In Nice we admired the ruins...

...and the stonework

Until Kerry pointed out that it wasn't real. It's trompe-l'oeil.

Soon you start to doubt everything. How much of this is real?

What about this garden?

These people, are THEY just trompe-l'oeil?

Thanks so much to Kerry and mon petit bureau de change, Fabrice, for fouxing du fa fa with us. You made it the perfect weekend.
Ai-ah!

Foux du Fa Fa

2011-08-26T05:11:00.000-07:00

Heading to Nice for the weekend. Can't wait to foux du fafa with Kerry.

Gärten der Welt

2011-08-06T13:05:00.000-07:00

Guess where Julie and I are.

It's not Seoul (sigh), but Gärten der Welt in East Berlin, where several cultures are represented by traditional gardens.

The Balinese Garden

The Korean Garden

할아버지!

The Japanese Garden

The Christian Garden

The Chinese Garden

The Oriental Garden

The Renaissance Garden

Chessboxing

2011-06-28T05:19:00.000-07:00

Chessboxing is a hybrid sport that involves alternate rounds of chess and (you guessed it) boxing. Recently this video appeared on the Berlin Chessboxing Club's website:

SHOCKING!

Enraged by this insult I went to cheer on London at the match/fight/game (?). Michael and I arrived at the train station and were offered sparkling wine and a lift to the venue (my sense of outrage dwindled due to the good hospitality, and perhaps the alcohol).

We were stamped with the chessboxing logo...

...and waited for the match to begin (Who's that lovely lady? Why, it's me!).

After careful preparation...

...the fighters entered the ring...

...the real lovely ladies declared the first round (I've never seen two more bored looking girls in my life)...

...and the two men sat down to a four-minute round of chess

Each player has a maximum of twelve minutes to play chess during the whole game, and there are a maximum of eleven rounds, including the three-minute boxing rounds. The commentator explained the game and we could see the moves on a large screen.

Then it was up for a round of boxing.

Who is that lovely lady whose job it is to move the board in and out of the ring between rounds? It's Sabine, my house-mate and chessboxer.

The chess rounds became increasingly more intense as the fighters tried to slow their breathing, recover from the punches and focus on the task at hand, their sweat dripping onto the board. Understandably, most mistakes are made at the start of the round.

There were three fights, and it was interesting to see how the players tactics played to their strengths. I think I might take up the sport.

So, how do you move horsey?

Hola Orela

2011-06-25T11:30:00.000-07:00

I was so excited about Orela's visit, but when she finally arrived I felt rather guilty. On the way to collect her from the airport I had a Sliding Doors moment and missed the train. Knowing the next one would get me to the airport a few minutes late I thought, 'Oh, please let her plane be delayed.' Due to a medical emergency the flight was diverted to Manchester airport. Orela arrived four hours late, tired and hungry (luckily, by the time the plane had landed the man suspected of having a heart attack seemed well).

Another reason for my guilty feeling was how everyone else seemed to have trumped me with their welcomes.

During her stay took a boat tour of the city

The slidey thingy (that's official boating jargon) protected us from the rain

We also took a trip to Potsdam, which delighted me by providing sights I hadn't taken in on my previous visit,

Princess Orela. How rude! I was supposed to be the princess and she was my Lady in Waiting. You don't play fair Orela Kingston!

We both loved this statue whose foot is the only part where the bronze is clean and shining.

The China House seemed even more spectacular, I noticed more detail this time round

I loved the people peaking out from behind pillars

We noticed the strange pods on this tree and asked a guard what kind of tree it was.

He explained that is was the American Trumpet Tree, and pulled back some branches to show us the flowers.

Talking Heads

The Moument to fallen Russian soldiers in Treptower Park

On her final night we went to the Sony Centre.

We took her to the Premier of a movie. Well technically we just went to the cinema on the evening that there happened to be the European premier of The Zookeeper, but we did get to see Kevin James (aka The Man From King Of Queens). Orela, as you can see, was shocked and fascinated.

Before the film we enjoyed some traditional German food

And a 'traditional' banana beer.

Cheers Orela! I loved having you over! Come back soon!

Karneval der Kulturen

2011-06-25T09:44:00.000-07:00

There seems to be a festival every weekend in Berlin during the summer. A couple of weekends ago I headed to Kreuzberg to take in the Karneval der Kulturen - a celebration of multi-culturalism.

Spot the, erm, gimp

The little old lady across the road

대한민국

Inevitably it became a party. Minimal electro DJs are pied pipers in Berlin.

The Longest Weekend

2011-06-07T10:00:00.000-07:00

Last weekend har four days. On Thursday it was Men's Day, where men do manly things, like drinking beer in a trailer.

Looking around palaces is also manly, so I headed to Potsdam with some friends.

The Versailles of Germany, Sanssouci Palace.

With a small space for growing oranges.

And room for a couple of guests.

What Garden is complete with a gold China House?

More manliness on Friday with sailing.

My future home.

Saturday I hit a market with Jess to get supplies for cooking.

No thanks, Darlin', I'm sweet enough

Julie refused to help so SHE DIDN'T GET ANY

The rhubarb cobbler was delicious (and one should always cook to match one's outfit)

This weekend will only be three days long. Boooo!

Tomorrow Never Comes

2011-05-22T01:58:00.000-07:00

I had decided that yesterday would be THE day. I would start back at the MA I had taken a break from. I would organise my German notes. I would study study study.

But the kitchen needed cleaning. And so did the Bathroom. Those episodes of Modern Family were not going to watch themselves, either. I suddenly realised how desperately in need I was of a good mani-pedi. And what about my hair? A deep conditioning treatment was certainly necessary. Before I new it it was time to head to the shop and by food to cook for Jess and Julie who were coming over (I made sure to be bare-foot and flick my hair when they got here).

Oh well, there is always tomorrow. I mean, I couldn't possibly start today, I have to meet a friend for lunch, see a man about a bike, and I really feel the need to go for a jog...

If only I was doing an MA in Procrastination.

Berlin Beginnings

2011-05-21T03:19:00.000-07:00

About three months ago I arrived in Berlin about from Malaysia, and the contrast couldn't have been bigger. In comparison to smiley, sunny Malaysia, Berlin and it's inhabitants seemed dark and cold. I cast my mind back to last summer, and saw a glimmer of hope in the changing seasons.

As I waited for things to warm up, I made some foodie friends with which I could experience the city in the best way I know how: eating. Jess and I went to an "Ostalgie" (Ost+Nostalgie) restaurant that specialises in food and décor from DDR

And with Lisa we experienced the world's tastiest kebab - food so good I have to share it with all my clothes. I think discovering this place was the turning point in my feelings for Berlin.

When I felt home sick for Korea, I found how easy it was to cook Korean food here.

And it turns out some Korean games are global too - I've seen this in playgrounds before.

I've danced through the day...

...and the night.

As the weather has warmed up, so have I.
I love this city.

But I still carry Korea with me wherever I go.

Couples' Outfits.

2011-03-13T09:08:00.000-07:00

On my last night in Korea I crossed one more thing off my list: couples' outfits.

Romantic with Juli

Studious with Maureen

It is always important to follow instructions.

I will have to head back to Korea to cross the rest off the list.

Panorama Drama

2011-03-08T12:49:00.000-08:00

My new camera is very intelligent. When I figured out how smart it is I got a little panorama drunk.

Malaysian Beaches

Malaysian Restaurant

Berlin Interiors

Malaysia, Truly Asia

2011-03-01T09:48:00.001-08:00

Highlights of my time in Malaysia included:

The Kuala Lumpur skyline...

...beautiful by day...

...or night.

Rooms with a view.

Walks on the beach.

Very fresh coconut juice.

The Bird Park: Part walk through paradise...

Part Hitchcockian Nightmare

An albino crow. According to the sign, due to the lack of pigment, "their chances of being picked as a mate are very low." I felt a strange connection to the bird.

Butterflies

Flowers...

...including a sample of the world's biggest species of flower, this one was about two feet in diameter...

Most importantly, though, was the time I got to spend with friends. Thanks to everyone who made my trip so memorable.

2011-02-04T01:53:00.000-08:00

Vietnamese Cooking 101 continued yesterday, with Thai teaching me how to make coconut pork.

You need coconut juice, hard boiled eggs and pork marinated in five-spice, fish sauce, shallots and salt.

As Daddy gets creative in the kitchen...

...Tyson is painting in the living room.

Add everything into a put and cook under pressure for 30 minutes, and then allow to stand for 15 minutes. The juice should be quite clear.

Serve with rice and salad - use excess juice as a dressing.

Eat with nem (fermented pork).

(Thanks to my sis for inspiring me to write more about food)

Chúc mừng năm mới - Happy New Year!

2011-02-02T23:50:00.000-08:00

To celibrate the coming of the year of the cat in Vietnam, Thai made some Bánh chưng, a delicious New Year's treat.

Legend has it that a Vietnamese King was getting old and didn't know which of his sons he wanted to pass the Kingdom onto. So he gave them the challenge to go and find a delicious delicacy, the son who brought him the best bite would inherit the Kingdom. So the sons searched far and wide for the perfect gift with which to impress the King and win the Kingdom. But the youngest son, who was poorer that the other sons, decided instead to make something special using everyday ingredients that the average person could afford. The product was Bánh chưng. The king was so impressed that he made his youngest son his heir, knowing that the son would take care of the ordinary Vietnamese people.

Thai was kind enough to let me take part in making this food fit for a king.

The basic ingredients are: dong leaves, soaked strips of young bamboo (not me ole bamboo), soaked and salted uncooked sticky rice, mung beans, fried shallots, and marinated pork.

You need a small box to with dong leaves. This is the trickiest part and requires wicked origami skills.

When you have lined the box with six leaves, fill the box with layers of rice, beans, pork and shallots.

Then, fold over the excess leafage, and press down to make sure the cake is nice and compact.

Remove the package from the box.

Tie up the package with the bamboo, twisting the ends together to make sure everything stays in place.

The finished product should look something like this:

After boiling for 6-8 hours, you can unwrap.

Enjoy hot cold, or (my favourite) fried. Serve with pickles to some one you want to impress.

Land Elephants

2011-01-24T03:04:00.000-08:00

It was not on my list, but my first and (alas) last basketball game in Korea was a great way to spend an afternoon looking at tall athletic young men. We were there to cheer on Maureen's friend Jarod Stevenson (문테종) who plays for the Incheon ET Land Elephants (not to be confused with the sea elephants).

Jarod is wearing the white sweatband.

There was also something for the boys.

I don't know who Pocari is, but his sweat is delicious and refreshing.

The basketball players weren't THAT tall, these are mini-cheerleaders.

I was picked out of the crowd for being a foreigner and given a signed ball. That's not going to happen in Germany.

Last Christmas

2011-01-24T02:44:00.000-08:00

I already regret my fashion choices of last year.

But I can not regret spending Christmas with such lovely people.

Thank you guys so much for making my first Christmas without family such a happy and memorable one.
xx

Kimchi Evil Eyes

2010-12-21T06:02:00.000-08:00

In just over a month I will be leaving Korea. How am I to exist without kimchi - the fermented spicy cabbage dish - that I eat every day? I clearly need some kimchi making skills to keep the H1N1 virus at bay. So on Sunday I headed with Sam to the O'Ngo cookery school to learn how to make the dish that I have become seriously attached to. As a tasty extra, they also taught us how make bulgogi.

Read, steady....COOK! (Please note the demonic eyes)

Hye-jin, our lovely instructor

Kimchi ingredients: brined cabbage, spring onion, chilli powder, garlic ginger and shrimp sauce....

....and radish (MU!)

After stuffing the cabbage with the other ingredients, and throwing half of the ingredients down yourself and on the floor (it's traditional), you bundle it up and...

TA-DAA!

Eating the food along with another student from Japan and her instructor (Again, please not the evil eyes)

Feeling very pleased with myself I couldn't believe at the time that my kimchi had actually given me demonic eyes. Until I went to get a photo taken for a job application today. The lady in the shop snapped my picture, I went home to wait for the email. I opened up the file and this demonic teacher greeted me:

I like to think that my perfect skin is another result of the home-made kimchi, rather than just very liberal use of photoshop. But, just incase my skin really is getting that good, I'm going to go make myself a kimchi smoothie. I'll just have to put up with the demonic eyes.

Hanbok

2010-12-17T21:30:00.000-08:00

Winter has officially hit, and so what are you to do in the wee hours, miles away from home in freezing temperature when you need a warm place to curl up and sleep? Go to the public bath house, of course.

Unfortunately, when Anna and I arrived after her farewell party, we were not the only ones to have thought of this. After a quick shower and bath, we went to the women's sleeping room - a large dark room with mats and blocks for pillows and about 30 sleeping women. Once the seven year old next to me stopped elbowing me in the ribs, I actually had quite a pleasant nights sleep.

Anna getting into the public bath house.

The spring of eternal youth?

It works!

But Baby it's cold outside

The next day, after sweating all the impurities out in the sauna, we went over to Julie's for the best shabu-shabu in the world (FACT). Julie was kind enough to let me try on her hanbok - traditional Korean costume made out two dresses and a jacket. Julie helped me get dressed. Oddly the dress is actually green. I like to think this photo also misrepresents the length of my face (thanks, Naomi, for telling everyone at school that my face is so long because of an accident involving a heavy articulated lorry)

The dress is very tight across the chest, but with lots of netting on the petticoat.

Practising a full Korean bow.

This bow-wow wanted in on my bow

Sexy Back

2010-11-19T03:48:00.001-08:00

No, I don't have the world's worst case of bacne.

These are the side effects of having your chi warmed up with a traditional cupping therapy.

Last weekend, I went with Jess and Jess to Dragon hill spa, a huge public bath house with seven floors of facilities. Once you get into your pajamas you are free to use the internet cafe, swimming pool, saunas, karaoke rooms, arcade games, restaurants, snack bars, beauticians and massage parlours. You swipe your wrist band if you have to buy a service, and then pay as you leave. Families, couples and groups of friends often spend the whole day there together as there is so much to do.

Jess and I in the large family room.

If you want to use the baths you go to the female only area, strip down and scrub yourself fiercely before dipping in. In the outdoor courtyard you can choose from the ginseng bath, the kids rainbow bath, a bath made of a special wood, and a salt water bath. Indoor there are more baths of different temperatures, some with salt water. There is also a steam room and sauna. Obviously, there didn't take any pictures of this area, but you can see some here.

I went to one of the massage areas, and decided to get the cupping with a meridian massage - deciding against "face reduction management". The massage therapist seemed to magically straighten out my body, by twisting my arms and legs. Then, she got a torch and a lot of small ceramic cups. She put the flame into the cups and this caused a vacuum so they could be stuck along my meridian lines. It was more uncomfortable than painful, with the places with more muscle being the most painful. When they were removed I had shocking red swollen circle on my back, but very little pain.

Cups on my back

A second round on my back

On my stomach. It felt like my organ were being sucked in.

Since then I will occasionally be reminded of the experience when my back hits the back of a chair with a slight shock of pain. It is probably the most extreme form of massage I've had (which is saying something - I was once covered in chocolate mud). Maybe next time I'll gather the courage to get my face reduced.

Not a nail-phile

2010-11-03T23:39:00.000-07:00

I'm a nailphobe. I always keep them short. I was unfortunaly born with abnormally large knuckels and my hands seem to have aged prematurely. So when I grow them long I look like I should be giving poisoned apples to royal runaways. Or, even worse, like Madonna.

It's so bad that I actually HATE having long nails. It makes me feel nauseous. But today, for you, my dear reader, I faced my fears and braved a nail shop.

Everything in Korea happens fast. Dinner is served in seconds, fads come and go in the blink of an eye, and skyscrapers go up in minutes. 'Bali Bali' (quickly quickly) is a way of life here. Except for with nails. My lovely manicurist filed, pinched, scraped and rubbed my nails until they transformed from splinted talons (I'd been growing them for a couple of weeks) to perfectly pruned fingers. It took so long I got to see a whole episode of an amazing Korean drama (Our handsome hero is hooked on painkillers and so is treating all the women in his life so badly they cry a single beautiful tear while looking out of a window).

Due to budgetary cuts, I was unable to get one of the more outrageous designs, such as cats, paw prints, the chanel logo, or a christmas tree complete with tinstle. So I opted for the low key option of a dark blue base with white flowers with a jewel in the middle. As I look down at my typing hands as I can't help but chuckle.

And shudder.

Daisy, Daisy.....

2010-10-25T22:10:00.000-07:00

Is it too early to start feeling nostalgic about yesterday? It was the first of the winter weather, so Maureen and I decided to spend the day freezing our knuckles off on a tandem bike by the Han river.

A wobbly start, during which Maureen screamed so much I paniced and almost took us on a detour into the river.

You'd look sweet upon the seat

(I'm not wearing white sock, that is my ankle you can see)

When two girls ride a bike together....

Don't so this:

Unless you want to end up like this:

We were unable to get couples' t-shirts, but we did manage to match enough that Maureen could camoflage herself into me. Can you spot her?

The List!

2010-10-19T06:08:00.000-07:00

Huzzah! The list is finished! Please sweep your beautiful eyes to the right to see. If anyone has any more ideas, then please feel free to comment.

Below are some photos I took today on my jog. You have to wonder how much jogging was was involved in taking so many photos....

Foot walky thingy....

A Provisional List

2010-10-15T02:31:00.000-07:00

So you've heard of a 'bucket list', a list of things you want to do before you die? Well, I have no intention of dieing anytime soon. But I am leaving Korea early next year. And may not be coming back. And as much as Korea has provided me with great experiences and opportunities, I've found it a more and more frustrating place to live. I need something to curtail my foreigner fatigue, and sooth my ajoshi allergies. Hence my marvellous idea: The kimshi pot list. A list of things I want to do before I leave Korea. Things that celebrate this quirky country and it's culture.

Please read my provisional list. Can you think of anything to add it? If you live in Korea, would you like to join me for some of these activities? All suggestions and volunteers are welcome!

Learn how to make kimchi.
Wear a hanbok (the traditional garment of Korea).
Go to a Korean style nightclub / cabaret.
Wear a couples outfit with some one and cycle a tandem bike along the Han river.
Get cupping done at a public bath house.
Take part in a Korean tea ceremony.
Get some crazy nail art.
Learn to dance k-pop style.
Meet Rain, my original reason for moving here.

The Grand Finale

2010-10-14T01:17:00.000-07:00

Today I received a CD of photos from the lovely Avril, documenting the last couple of weeks of my summer fun. Here are some of the best bits.

The BEST shop ever.

Outside Gyeongju

At the entrance of Bulguksa temple, you are confronted by the guards that stop evil spirits from entering. Avril pushes through, just.

The Dharma was wushing off that drum.

Couples outfits.

Couples shoes

We've got the enthusiasm

But Avril.....

A BREEZE!

Night time in the ancient capital

Ancient tombs

Vanda's picking up good Vibrations

The roofs of Gyeongju

Cute face

Cute angry face

You can call her flower if you want to

We arrived in Busan in perfect weather for the Beach

Cooking on Kimchi pots, Vanda shows us her skillz

Drinks for the evening

They effect different people in different ways

As time went on it was hard to see what they were

Walking it off the next day

The lobby of a hotel we couldn't afford. I felt like I was on Deep Space Nine

Top of Mount Hala, South Korea's highest mountain

Back in Anyang

In Gyeongbok palace

I was so glad they were able to come all the way over to Korea. We had a great time and they helped me make the decision to move to Germany. A decision partly inspired by a guy who look looks a lot like this.

Ah Yes, I Remember It Well

2010-09-06T04:59:00.000-07:00

I thought photos taken by me with a disposable would be rubbish. But it depends what you point the thing at...

Hmm, Versailles....

Romantic lighting

A view of the grounds.

And plenty of space inside.
I would move in right away if it weren't for...

...the hordes of people.
"Excuse me! Out my way! Can't you see I'm pretending to be Madame de Pompadour?"

Part of 'The Farm' that Marie Antoinette had made. There was something Disney about it. If your head is this far up in the clouds, some one will want to remove it from your shoulders.

This is why French women don't get fat.

Mosquee de Paris. If you could get massages, steam baths, and delicious sweets in Church, I'd be there much more often.

Birdies at my table in the mosque.

More beautiful Middle Eastern inspired architecture at L'Institut du Monde Arabe

In detail.

Still beautiful, my mother.

Berlin Bites

2010-08-14T17:46:00.000-07:00

The day after my last blog was a very still day, so after a breakfast of homemade muesli, we decided to go sailing. Eventually the wind picked and we zipped around the lake.

That evening my Franken friend took me for some franken food. Frankly, it was a fabulous Franken feast.

Lots of beer to choose from, all from one region.

And lots of delicious food.

Other highlights of my week in Berlin included:

Drinking cocktails in a bar with images of Seoul projected on the wall.

Walking along the canal with Captain and eating under a weeping willow in candle light (so dark I looked Gorgeous).

Captain (who insisted on a name change from NerdHead) looked alright too.

Shopping for shoes. Sometimes they have my size on display. I don't feel like an awkward stomping giant.

Thankfully, I had my current adventures with V&A to look forward to on my return from Berlin, or I don't think I'd have been able to board the plane home. More on these adventures later....

Wurst of Times?

2010-08-03T01:10:00.000-07:00

First thing on arriving I ate Curry Wurst. Delicious. Berlin has proved gastronomically great since then. With potato dumplings, pork, REAL bread, Vietnamese food all thrown into the mix. NerdHead, my host, has been supplying me with some of the best, heartiest breakfasts I've ever had.

Berlin is a beautiful mixture of architect reflecting the extremes of it's history: old and new, East and West, clean and dirty, triumphant and penitent. Last night we went to the beautiful Sony Centre to watch 'Inception' (lives upto the hype). Having drank a coke the size of an elephant's bladder I had to dash to the toilets in the middle of the movie. Standing under a pool of water looking up at a skyscraper through a tent like dome that changes colour, I couldn't tell if I was in a dream or reality. I expected Leonardo DiCaprio to turn up at any second.

Shouting for Huey down the big white porcelain telephone

2010-07-30T11:01:00.000-07:00

I am so sorry, dear reader, for my neglect. I know you have been waiting with bated breath (listerine will fix that) for a blog update. It is not that I don't love you, it's just in the absence of a laptop or camera (my Dad's broke, technology officially hates me) there has been little to blog about.

Until the other night....

I'm in Birmingham at Little Sister and Her Boyfriend's house. We decided to go out for dinner. I put on a beautiful dress with a leopard on it that I bought the day after I had a dream in which Little Sister turned into leopard and I had to feed her a mixture that was one third tinned tuna, one third cat food and one third cornflakes. The dress no longer fits. I cursed myself for eating too much over the holiday and vowed to steer clear of all rich foods.

Then I went out and had tomato and mozzarella salad.

Followed by lamb shank with potato rosti and roast vegetables.

With crème caramel for dessert.

And a selection of Italian cheeses to finish the meal off

A few hours later I was reviewing the menu with My New Best Friend:

I have spent the last couple of days on the sofa, avoiding food, and in close proximity to My New Best Friend, just in case. Little Sister was kind enough, and worried enough, to take the day off work to get medicine and watch Disney movies with me. Her Boyfriend has been equally good to me. It almost makes being sick worth it.

Also, I may be able to fit into my dress again.

My Mah-Jong Face

2010-07-18T14:48:00.000-07:00

Tonight, after a triring day of swanning (get it? haaaaaa) around a chateux I learnt the basics of Mah-Jong.

It's really just rummy played with tiles, or, as the 1922 instruction leaflet says;

Always remember that your object should be not only to eat yourself, but to prevent any other player eating.

Anyway, tomorrow I'm off to the beach. Very exciting - this is what the beach in France is like:

FACT

Mentioning the War

2010-07-17T12:58:00.000-07:00

Normandy and England are tightly bound by their shared history, modern and ancient.

Yesterday I went to see the Bayeux tapestry, the 1000 year old depiction of the events leading up to the Battle of Hastings, and the Battle itself. The tapestry is about 70 meters long and very colourful. The battle scene is quite graphic, with the Normans trampling on beheaded Saxon bodies.

On a walk around Bayeux cathedral, where the tapestry originally hung, I came across another memorial to fallen English soldiers of a much more recent time. Memories of the D-Day landings are still very present in Normandy. The landscape is dotted with cemeteries of soldiers, the number of grave stones is astonishing. That so many young men from so many countries lost their lives in such a short space of time is staggering. The debt Europe still owes them is humbling.

On Thursday I saw a British veteran sitting on a Bench by Gold Beach, looking over the sea where the British troops landed, overcame the Germans and then dragged in a working port that had been constructed in England. Today children play on the merry-go-round and build sandcastles on the beach where the remnants of the port remain. Tourists eat ice cream while walking up the picturesque streets.

At first it seemed incongruous that such activity should happen at the spot where so many lost their lives. But then that's what they fought for, that people could live normal lives, free from the terror of Nazism.

Hopefully the cemeteries will remain so lovingly cared for for a long time.

Glourious Basterd

2010-07-14T12:05:00.000-07:00

The last troops arrived on Monday and we've been frantic with activity since. What with lazing on the grass, sipping wine, playing table football and table tennis in the play barn, taking strolls in the countryside and dips in the pool, eating delicious food and drinking cider, there has hardly been a minute to just relax.

We have managed to make it as far as the nearby town, Falaise, birthplace of William the Bastard (AKA the Conqueror, but the first one is much more fun to say, especially in front of polite company). He became King of England after shooting King Harold in the eye at the Battle of Hastings. Here he is all conqueringy:

There has been a lot to adjust to in Normandy; the slow pace of life, the presence of nature. One of the biggest shocks for me, coming from a country with a very low birthrate, has been the presence of the ickle bickle kiddy winkles. They are very cute but also incredibly breakable. They seem to have some sort of inbuilt navigation device that leads them straight to the nearest sharp rock, scolding hot drink, or height they can fall from. Their appetite for jewelry and expensive electronics is also alarming.

Tyson must have seen something hard to smack his gorgeous noggin off.

In contrast, it's strange how OLD the rest of us have gotten. All my generation are married or settled down, and some are even creating the strange little beings described above.

This is how we used to look:

This is how we look now:

In reality though, it seems deep inside we are all just teens still; giggling over card games, hiding our bad language from the parents (by that I mean words such as 'dang', and 'drat'), or just swirling around in a floaty skirt because it makes you feel like a princess.

Normandy Landings

2010-07-11T08:23:00.000-07:00

The person with the shortest journey is always the last one to arrive. I ran into Charles De Gaulle airport to find my sisters, their partners, and their children had already arrived. I hugged my sister Briony and panicked, "Is she pregnant? Does she just need to do some sit-ups? What if I ask and she's not? DILEMMA!" Discretion is the better part of valour, so I kept quiet. Happily, it turns out she is expecting her second child in January (Thank goodness I didn't buy her that bottle of wine for her birthday).

Cars were rented and we set off for the holiday house to meet the rest of the tribe. I have lots of sun-soaked memories of family holidays with my cousins in France from my childhood, but now the family has expanded to include, husbands, boyfriends and children. The distance people travel to get there has also changed, as seen by my Uncle's plan of attack.

The final troops will arrive tomorrow. Today is just for sitting in the garden and recovering from jet lag. And, of course, eating.

Newly Vague

2010-07-09T13:08:00.000-07:00

Before I came to Paris I watched some Nouvelle Vague films. It made me think that in Paris everyone sits around smoking, drinking coffee and philosophosising existentially, three things that I'm not a natural at. I think I pulled it off rather well, though.

Having lived out my black and white Parisian fantasy, I think it's time to leave. Frankly, it's quite a dangerous place for me to be. I keep getting distracted by beautiful things and walking straight into traffic, much to the annoyance of my companion.

When it Sizzles

2010-07-09T12:06:00.000-07:00

Sorry for my silence, I know you've been on the edge of your seats for my next thrilling installment. I'm afraid I've been stuck inside more than I wanted because of an essay that refuses to write itself. Also, Emily (AKA Vacation Ruiner - seriously no breakfast in bed and no foot massages, she's a terrible hostess) had to go to the library and take her camera with her. So I've been forced to Franglais my way around with a disposable camera (yes, they do still exist - remember winding on?) and so a lot of the photos aren't available until I get them developed (soretro). Here are some of things I've done with Vacation Ruiner.

Walking along the Seine....

Where my face belongs on a bridge....

The return of the heart....

Playing with shadows, oooh, spooky....

The Eiffel Tower

The Eiffel Tower DISGUISED AS A TREE, but you can't fool me

Picnic

Giggling at the picnic (Dang, I look good in Sepia)

More Giggles

A Tale of Two Cities

2010-07-05T13:25:00.000-07:00

Paris and Seoul are different, in some ways polar opposites. In certain aspects Paris seems superior to Seoul. As mentioned below, it's not ugly. Also, I can venture out into public with my shoulders exposed. If I do this in Seoul I almost always get mistaken for a Russian prostitute, which really upsets me (not to mention how angry it makes Sasha, my pimp). There is more romantic freedom here, couples of all ages show affection in public.

In other ways, Seoul has Paris beat. The throngs of tourists here could get tiring, especially when they are in groups yelling at everyone from the top of an open bus (I, dear reader, am not a tourist but an intrepid travel writer with a unique, insightful and valid perspective, much like Elizabeth Gilbert). Also, shops and restaurants close here. I mean they actually shut down. And you can't buy things. And cafes only serve food at certain times. It's all very confusing. As is the subway map.

But I've loved walking around the city, along the Seine, through the Louvre, along the St Martin Canal (where Amelie skimmed stones). I've also enjoyed, sitting in the apartment studying with Emily. The holiday so far is lovely.....

Paris is a city of giants, as evidenced by the size of the doors.

The local flower shop

"Bangul bangul"

I love this photo. Can you guess why? Hint: it's not because of the hat hair.

Emily is not taking her PhD seriously enough

You can have any colour, as long is it's cream

Supper

Fromage to you......

2010-07-04T01:53:00.000-07:00

My wandering open mouth was eventually stuffed with cheese.

La Joie Débridée de son Arrivée à Paris

2010-07-04T00:35:00.000-07:00

Arrived in Paris yesterday after what was a lovely flight with Qatar Airways. Asian airlines have always been so much better than American and European ones in my experience, the service just seems so much better. It also helped that I took a Korean sedative travel sickness potion just before the flight and then had a glass of wine. Ten hours went by in the blink of an eye.

I managed to wake myself up for the in-flight meals, which I always really exciting, I love how they separate everything into little boxes, it reminds me of sitting in the volvo eating a picnic from a plastic tray as a kid, with torrential rain ruining any view of the lake district (it can have rained every time, can it?). While struggling to open the packet of kim chi (which I was determined to do, as it would be the last time I ate the vinegary spicy giver-of-life fermented cabbage for five weeks) I noticed the Korean girl beside me doing the same. It turns out she was coming to Paris to, for a job interview. She was very interesting and we spent the whole time in Doha chatting about culture stress and what it's like living in a foreign place. We're hopefully going to meet up again in Seoul, if not Paris.

The first thing that has struck me on arrival is how beautiful everything is. There are beautiful houses with GARDENS and the buildings are old and beautiful. The window displays are beautiful. The supermarket shelves are beautiful. Emily's apartment is beautiful. It's as if a sense of beauty is brought to every aspect of life. I walked around with my mouth open pointing at things and saying "That's beautiful!"

Coming to a sofa near you!

2010-06-28T00:20:00.000-07:00

Armed with an adequately ridiculous title, I'm going to blog my way around France, England, Germany and Korea this summer. Join me as I attempt to make witty comments and insightful observations on my journey. Most likely I will just be posting pictures from borrowed cameras and telling anecdotes (oh, how I do love to tell long and pointless stories).

Below is an explanation of the title for my non-British friends (God bless 'em).